lindseyerin: (corset)
[personal profile] lindseyerin
As thrilled as I am with the red corset appearing in my icon, I have a plan of improvements for my next foray into 16th Century stays.  Most of it is pretty simple; lowering the front and back, extending the point in the front, and narrowing the straps.  But I am also trying to find a way to reconcile my preference for a back lacing corset with my love of the front lacing Effigy stays.  I have tried the Dorothea bodies, but I do not get the same waist definition and I don't find them as comfortable.

 For this corset, I am going to pattern up my stays exactly like my red stays, but with the above changes and with an opening in the back.  The front opening will be sewn together instead of lacing up and the lacing will be in the back.  I could just make the corset front and back lacing and do the tightening from the back, but I think one solid piece in the front will give me that flatter shape I am looking for.  If I don't like it, I can either making it a front and back lacing corset or, if I haven't put any holes in it yet, I can just close up the back and open up the front.  No wasted work.

I have no documentation to back this up, but the pattern itself is at least period.  This is an experiment based on personal preference alone, though I will write up my findings here and also add them to the corset article I wrote last year.  Which will be post on my website once I get it back up.  ;)

I will be using one layer of cotton duck, on of a silk-linen blend (the "fashion fabric"), and possibly a layer of muslin on the inside and then I will bind it with blue satin.  For boning, I am going to test out a combination of small round reeds and a few pieces of steal.  If I don't like the reeds, I'll probably use cable ties. 

Date: 2008-06-25 10:13 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile]
My effigy corset is back and front laced. I did it that way to preserve the proportions of the effigy corset front (with a front lacing and the boning layout to allow for a front lacing) and also so I could get OUT of it on my own.

I tend to have the front permanently laced up edge to edge and have someone else lace me in at the back. This is because I find it far more comfortable for my shape to be laced in from the back rather than the front. No idea why, thats just me!

I have also lowered and WIDENED the front neckline and lowered the back a LOT. Also, the straps were reduced in width but at least half! The originals were far to wide for my gowns but then all my gowns are lower backed than the gowns of c. 1600.

For boning, 1/4 " width split cane (rounded on one side and flat on the other with two per channel works brilliantly for me. The only steels I have (again the 1/4 " width) are the two slightly diagonal ones on the front, on either side of the lacing and again on the lacing on the back. I would say to put a rigilene piece in the side back just where the corset starts to become the back (do you understand what I mean?) this is because it has a LOT of stress there at the waist and the cane could easily split. The rigilene piece helps to support it - though a cable tie probably would work just as well.

I REALLY recommend cane. It is SO comfortable and still allows the stays to "breathe". I shan't be using anything else for stays in future (except when making Victorian ones of course!).

Good luck with your corset. Your red one is gorgeous with a lovely fit.
Edited Date: 2008-06-25 10:17 am (UTC)

Date: 2008-06-26 04:36 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile]
I find it far more comfortable for my shape to be laced in from the back rather than the front.

Exactly! I might end up with a front and back lacing corset in the end, but I'm very curious what it will look like solid in the front.

Thanks for the information!

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